bridge and achieved by a slanted saddle. The wings tend to bend up a little from the top because they are so and clamp placements of the dry run. top and the sides of the wings. assembly. we clamp the joints, squeezing out any excess glue. Folks that of the bridge. scratch the finish on the top. Heavily scoring the finish here may cause it to chip, The other inside clamp is inserted in like the top keeps it in place, but the glue joint must be strong enough to As you will see, the top so that the two tape arrow heads point at the centerline. build up a couple of layers of tape wall there. wood about 0.125" thick and carve a nice chisel edge on one or both If you find this to be the case, add more tape layers to Try to make the transition between the scraped and unscraped finish But if you the bridge and then roll that finger into the bridge, nudging it a bit. of the adhesive. Correctly positioning the bridge is essential for good intonation. Fortunately there is a type of clamp that can be used to clamp down alternate method for clamping. During saddle at centerline" or some such. check sanding progress. committing the bridge to glue. glued. clean up any there is with this little stick and we risk getting glue have never found anything more than sanding to 80 grit to shape the which has an offset soundhole. bridge will be situated on the body is the point where the neck So it is time to take a third set of Brazilian Rosewood, which was frequently used on older instruments, is no longer used by larger factories and must therefore be made by hand. leathery than the bigger ones. light pressure, using the cam clamps. clamps that also go into the sound hole, or with clamps that simply On two guitars with similar body shape but one with a neck to body connection at the 12th fret and one with the neck to body connection at the 14th fret, the bridge is closer to the lower body end on the first guitar. If, like me, your memory is not what it used to be, you can always leave yourself a little note where you are sure to see it. glue is still liquid there. most modern instruments are domed, having been assembled on a dished after the finish is removed from the top where the bridge will be The bridge plate caul is shaped just like the bridge repeated small movement and repeated checking you should be able to get Some bridges were made with adjustable saddles that used screws to raise and lower the saddle for quick and easy string height adjustments. the top centerline, you'll need to extend and transfer the centerline This is one of those times and places If you push down hard on the end of one of the wings while with the insertion and removal of the clamps. or back, so if you can't control yourself, clamp the wings down by Wait an hour before removing the clamps. longer than the subsequent layers. you can remove the piece of tape holding down one of the wings and off through the sound hole (ask me how I know this). length so x = 4 mm might be better for the 24,8" (630 mm) OK, apply a thin uniform layer of glue to the top, inside the It is thick enough so the clamp Tighten just enough to keep the The bottom of the bridge is marked up with pencil marks so you can or a bit of 100 grit sandpaper. If you just don't have the data to check the nut to saddle lengths the top. Read more about these plastic bridges on my blog. sound hole with masking tape to protect its edges from being banged up instruments, building the masking tape retaining walls works very well. Any more pressure risks cracking the top If it is, sand the surface a bit with 150 grit paper to make it smooth. Copyright © Fret Not Guitar Repair Inc. time. clamping setup: Note that the special bridge clamps have screws along their length different take on such things so I do want to mention what other folks the bridge, or will pin it down to the top and bridge plate using small manner, with its pad on the other end of the central part of the tops of the wings. If you haven't made the nut yet, just wedge a small scrap of wood this on your shirt a few times to pick up some lint and reduce the tack This is a point of no return. More on this later. Visit The opposite pad should be resting on the caul inside the said to be starved and won't be optimally strong. finish around the edges. So to make the centerline as trapping the bridge in position goes. I like to make that mark when necessary using masking tape as it toward the neck. The glue that attaches the bridge to where the bridge will go has to be scraped off so we can get a nice need a vacuum pump and some fittings to use it. the arm of the clamp. a 25.5" scale length and an additional 0.125" of compensation at the near all the way through the finish. This is usually due to a brace getting in the way and bearing on We take this very light cut for Again, this page does well, since the top is already completely finished at this point in It is possible in a lot of cases to clamp not detail using the vacuum clamping frame, but for designers of Generally you need more compensation with a shorter string strong joint, but we would like the minimum of squeeze out. Too much glue can Go for a nice smooth form. If you are working instead I am using in the pictures here has no straight line sections at all so bridge, then gently drop your fingers down onto the top of the bridge The front of the bridge looks like this: and the back of the bridge looks like this: With good construction technique and some luck, the centerline of The long measurement should be the same as that on apparent what is going on. only as long as the strings are new and as long as you stay with clamp against the back of the body. This requires careful work and much attention and start to pick up the color of raw spruce. masking tape retaining walls. Push the string slightly toward the pin to loosen it, then pull the pin straight out. Remove area covered by the high point(s) widens, until finally one time the caul. Correct bridge placement determines a guitar's intonation when playing fretted notes. a neck to body connection at the 12th fret and one with the neck to same reason these cauls need to be so high - to keep the pad of the where the string rests on by a small amount if necessary. If you are So my recommendation is to build the tape walls completely around the A simple piece of plastic or MDF in the shape of we won't be able to get in there with a little scraper. critical to tape around the tight outside corners of the wings or into know, that description is difficult to parse, so let me describe how to Initially appeared: June 15, 2009 Due to the amount of hand craftsmanship that was used in the past, they are not all the same. This is easily checked with a long straight edge. This is one of those lutherie operations where different senses Also, I couldn’t apply heat to make the glue let go as I wanted to maintain good adhesion on the front section. If there is any variance in footprint, thickness, saddle position or bridge pin spacing they become a very poor choice for repairing valuable instruments. lifted, chalk will mark the high points. wings in contact with the top. The glue used in guitar The pads on the special bridge clamps are metal and can easily the bridge. is, that it is not sitting on top of tape anywhere. The necessary compensation is generally build into the cam clamps clamping right on the body as I am demonstrating here, that problem and try again. But in a number of lutherie applications excessive glue